Magazine: Vogue Germany
Issue: October 2008
Title: Insel der sehnsuch
Photographer: Karl Lagerfeld
click for more photos from this editorial
But here it is. I adore the Elegant Gothic Lolita/ Elegant Gothic Aristocrat theme of this spread. Also, the location is just brilliant, I like the beach, the cliffs, the encroaching forest. It reminds me of "The Piano." I chose this photo because the hair is fantastic. I like wearing my hair this way - ITS ELEGANT OKAY I AM NOT BRUSHING IT ON PURPOSE!!! I LIKED ROOM WITH A VIEW, DO YOU HAVE A PROBLEM WITH THAT?!
As usual, I will use this German fashion editorial to talk about Japanese Subculture Fashion.
While searching around for some examples of Elegant Gothic Lolita and Elegant Gothic Aristocrat, I found a comprehensive article which succinctly explains the usage of the word -
LOLITA
Although, in North America and Europe, one thinks automatically of Vladimir Nabokov when one sees the word Lolita, this subculture has never been about sex. Quite the opposite is true; this is girl culture for girl consumption. The Lolita wardrobe includes such demure items as high–collared, long–sleeved shirts and dresses, and skirt lengths that fall below the knee. It is quite likely that the use of Lolita, in this context of subculture, has origins in the Japanese practice of incorporating English words into their phrases and names, which creates an entirely new meaning. This may in turn have origins in the desire to enhance the prestige value of an item by linking it to the West.1The article, which is by Kyshah Hell for Morbid Outlook, goes on to quote my all time favourite blog (aside from your two blogs, obvs):
Subcultural participant Carmen Yuen states, “For me, I consider what’s provocative isn’t showing [a lot of] skin, but wearing a fashion that makes people take a step back.
this is a scan from the "Gothic and Lolita Bible" which predates the above editorial... source
Which is absolutely one of the reasons why I am drawn to it. My penchant for the outrageous attracts me to styles which people will think ridiculous or offensive. I am not afraid of being laughed at! (Can I throw in my favourite quote ever? "The function of art is to disturb" - George Braque) another interesting perspective the article offers is its analysation of the conservative nature of an authentic lolita wardrobe:
The Lolita subculture allows a form of socialization that is all female; it helps girls cement friendships within the common interest of creativity, and without the antagonism that male attention can create. This subcultural style is, according to Carmen Yuen, a way to feel very beautiful without having to sexualize yourself...[but] playing dress-up and looking cute is self-satisfying in its own right.There is an interesting feminist angle here. And I would agree with this point, if it didn't directly conflict with my personal documentation/love of the sexualisation of childhood themes. This raises a lot of questions for me. ( Mary Wollstonecraft's The Rights of Women adresses the enslavement of women by the imposition upon them of a man's ideal wife, which can succinctly be described as a "highly sexualised child."
It is not a stretch for me to proclaim the validity of the general statements that the following features have been for most of history and are still found attractive in women: youthfulness, virginity, innocence, obediance, ect. And squinting I think of the undeniable sexyness of big hipped/big breated women...which contradicts my previous statement...I did say this is about questions, I am circling the idea that "lolita fashion = (beauty-sexuality)" and yet "lolita fashion = (sexuality-shame)" when maybe it is just "lolita fashion = (sexuality, but only if you're a big pervert like Kiki and want to be spanked and call your lover Daddy.)
Where is the attaction in sexuality disguised as childishness/innocence. Is it just in the inherent desirability of taboos? Is it the influence of the christian ideal of virginity and cultural association of shame and sexuality? Is it the same element that makes rape fantasy so appealing - that women can relinquish the responsibily for and shame of the pleasure they feel...their sexuality? Perhaps it is so difficult for me to wrap my head around this because I'm such a... I believe "bottom" is the polite term (as opposed to BDSM nympho freak sub pervert = NSFW!!!).
Women should be able to bond with one another and emrace their sexuality at the same time. Women should be able to be openly and confidently sexual AND beautiful and respectable.
Women should be albe to play dress up and not need a reason.
and yet
would I enjoy dressing up in a giant frilly pink dress and bonnet and being called a good little girl while sucking cock like it was a lollipop as much if these statements were true?
Looking forward to your thoughts,
- Kieran
